Remembering Mark Essex, the New Orleans Sniper

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“Only a pig would read shit on the ceiling.” That was the hand-painted message which greeted police from the plaster roof of a shabby New Orleans apartment on January 7, 1973. Similarly, unnerving messages were scrawled on the walls, murderous phrases like “My death lies in the bloody death of racist pigs” and “Kill pig Nixon and all his running dogs.”

Earlier that day, loud bangs had been reported on Loyola Avenue in the heart of the city’s business district. Police were immediately dispatched to the 300th block of the busy area.

They were ambushed by sniper gunfire, the beginning of a deadly day-long siege on the city perpetrated by a single man. 

Mark Essex, AWOL military man and resident of the apartment covered in hateful messages, had broken into the New Orleans' Howard Johnson hotel and murdered a manager, assistant manager, and two newlyweds en route to the roof. There, he and a sniper rifle waited eagerly for law enforcement to arrive. On that day, he was a man very much ready to wage war.

For years Essex had quietly seethed over racist abuse he suffered in the Navy, going so far as to desert his post over the harsh words and physical harassment inflicted upon him by white officers and recruits. After being court marshaled and discharged dishonorably for his desertion, Essex drifted from city to city while pursuing a relationship with The Black Panthers. (He did not ultimately manage to join the Panthers, but read their propaganda voraciously.) He studied radical Muslim theology and the guerrilla warfare tactics of revolutionaries in other countries, looking for ways to fight back against the white oppression he saw being inflicted upon his African American community. Essex finally landed in New Orleans in 1972, a black man in the deepest South bearing witness to additional acts of racism on a near-daily basis.

It was November 1972 when Essex was finally triggered into action by the racially-charged police killing of two African American students in Baton Rouge. (They were gunned down by law enforcement during a protest.) Essex decided he would even the score by hunting white police officers specifically.

His destructive plan had already been partially executed before he hit HoJo’s—Essex walked into the downtown N.O. Police Department on New Year's Eve and shot two officers, killing them before fleeing the premises. He went into hiding for one week, emerging on January 7th to gun down a grocery store owner he believed had given information to the police before carjacking his way over to the hotel.

From his perfect and well-protected vantage point, Essex targeted cops, firemen, and white civilians as first responders worked to empty the building and neighboring structures. Newspapers reported that nearly 100 officers eventually made it to the scene, but none could get a clear shot of the loner sniper on the roof. Law enforcement was also unclear as to whether there was one gunman or many—Essex did a masterful job of setting fires and utilizing firecrackers within the hotel to create the illusion multiple shooters were inside the building.

It took a military helicopter on loan from Belle Chasse, Louisiana, and many hours of exchanged fire to draw Essex out of his concrete hidey-hole. When he finally slipped into the line of fire, dozens of police snipers discharged their weapons at once while the soldiers in the chopper rained bullets upon him.

Essex was ultimately shot around 200 times, but not before he killed 9 people and wounded 13.

Records show that before his murder spree Essex had been, by all accounts, a model citizen. A Kansas native, friends and family remembered him as congenial and well-liked. He attended church, sang in the choir, and got good grades. He stayed out of trouble with the law and graduated a dental technician training program with honors before enlisting in the military. Adjudicators involved in his Navy court marshaling even confirmed that there was evidence Essex had been targeted and abused while in the Navy, a detail which suggests it took the United States Military to turn a good man into a wrathful criminal.

Tragically, Essex’s killings may have been preventable. In the days after Christmas 1972, the escalating Mark, who had adopted the name Mata, penned a note to a local TV station describing his exact plan in detail:

“Africa greets you. On Dec. 31, 1972, aprx. 11 pm, the downtown New Orleans Police Department will be attacked. Reason — many, but the death of two innocent brothers will be avenged. And many others. P.S.Tell pig Giarrusso the felony action squad ain’t shit. - MATA”

(That last line was a casual ‘fuck you’ to then Chief of Police Joseph I. Giarrusso.)

Sadly, the letter wasn’t opened at the TV station until days after the first killing at the police department, too late to save the lives of those killed on New Year's Eve or January 7.

Mark Essex’s killing spree isn’t even close to New Orleans’ bloodiest day of mass murder. (That one is an even more haunting story we’ll leave for another time.) But it is one of the more haunting days in our city’s more recent history, one which many locals still remember as the number of mass shootings in America continues to rise.

What Does Twelfth Night Mean to New Orleans?

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It’s the day of the feast, y’all!

For those of you new to NOLA history and lore, The Feast of The Epiphany is the day some Catholic cities like New Orleans celebrate those Three Wise Men and their swag bag of gifts rolling up on the only infant more famous than Baby Yoda, Jesus Christ himself. Feast day, aka Twelfth Night, kicks off our beloved, bedazzled, and delightfully bizarre Carnival season, the weeks-long, parade-laden, cake and booze binge which culminates in a city-wide costume party on Mardi Gras Day. We mark the start of the season, unsurprisingly, with parades, including one eye-catching procession of saints and sinners which goes straight through the French Quarter, The Krewe of Joan D’Arc.

NOLA newcomers, history nerds, aspiring knights, and revolutionaries should all head down to the Quarter this evening for this walking (and sometimes mounted) parade honoring Saint Joan. (Joan of Arc’s birthday coincides with Epiphany, and Joan was Super French and Christian, and New Orleans is Super French and Christian, hence a parade for Joan of Arc to kick off Carnival. It all makes more sense if you’re drinking.) Joan, of course, is the famed female war hero who was commanded by God to help liberate the city of Orleans, France, from British attack and then was burned alive as a heretic for making dudes feel so inadequate. Folks attending this particular parade can expect to see tons of medieval garb, costumes playing with French and religious iconography, drunken knights, and a looootta angels/saints cutting a raucous path through one of the oldest cities in the United States...it’s not a bad way to start the week.

Hottest Hell closes for the Twelfth Night revelry but will be back to our regularly scheduled tours on Tuesday. 

3 Tips for Choosing a New Orleans Ghost Tour


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Once upon a time, only a small number of freaks, criminals, and REALLY lost travelers wandered the streets of the French Quarter at night. Today, however, we’re one of THE top destinations in a wanderlust world! Many visitors don’t want to pass through New Orleans without getting an authentic taste of the mayhem, music, hauntings, and true crime that have made our city oddly seductive. So many people wanna know NOLA better that we now have 300+ tour companies operating within the Crescent City every day!  

That’s great news if you’re a ghost groupie or dark tourist, but challenging if you’re trying to sort through hundreds of ads to find and book the best ghost tour in New Orleans.

  How exactly can a traveler cut through the sales pitches and spooky stock images to score an authentically excellent tour? Here are three tips to help you find the right experience for you and your people.


 1. Size Matters - Dream Small

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  Group size, specifically. Because when it comes to tours, bigger is rarely better.  

Unless you’ve booked a private tour, who you’re surrounded by on any given outing is largely up Odin, Lilith, or whatever deity you trust. We’re fortunate as a city to attract some pretty kind, wildly entertaining visitors. But reality is that not everyone who lands in NOLA is friendly, considerate, or polite...and the bigger the group, the higher the likelihood you’ll get stuck spending your 95 minutes of touring next to Basic Becky and Her Very Drunk Bachelorette Party Wearing Penis Tiaras, or Teddy From Texas Who Talks Through Ev-er-y-thing.  

(Note: A few operators, including Hottest Hell, have policies that restrict drunk guests from participating in tours, so if you book with us we can at least protect you from Basic Becky and the Drunk Bachelorettes.)  

Additionally, huge tour groups can put so much strain on guides that even the most skilled bards can’t deliver their best performance. Conducting a tour in New Orleans is like doing a solo Broadway performance for 90+ minutes...but in the middle of Times Square during rush hour, instead of inside a lovely quiet theatre. 

In addition to remembering 300+ years of New Orleans history, guides have to do headcounts at every stop, lead your posse down narrow streets, make sure they’re seen and heard by all touristas at all times, and answer y’alls questions. When a guide is trying to do all that for 30 people on the very old, very crowded streets of the French Quarter, you can imagine some paying patrons end up not being able to hear very well, or finding themselves struggling to connect to the stories from the back of an oversized pack. You reeeally don’t want that patron to be you.  

To avoid getting stuck in a supersized mess, dream small. Look for companies that advertise capping their groups (Any more than 20 and things can get meh.) And don’t forget the value of private tours, where it’s just you, your favorite friends or family, a guide, and whatever cold beverages or snacks you wanna nibble while you’re exploring this twisted playground.


 2. Less is More: Avoid “All Inclusive/4-in-1” Sales Pitches

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You know what you can’t get all at once? Everything a city as old and weird as New Orleans has to offer. So be wary of any companies claiming to show it all. 

Reader poll: Would you prefer to be served a full stein of rich, nutty, cold lager made by a master brewer, or a gallon of watered-down piss beer poured by a cranky truck stop bartender? 

Most people prefer quality over quantity, especially when they’re treating themselves or their loved ones. 

When the New Orleans haunted and historic tour industry first started to grow, the French Quarter was a lot like a truck stop dive bar. Vampires, ghosts, murders, voodoo, pirates, witchcraft, scandals, gators, saints, sex workers, swamps, corruption—we had it all, so we poured it all into one giant glass and slid it down the bar at whoever wanted it. 

The problem is, there’s SO much fascinating history that there’s no way to fit it all into a single tour. Guests back then often got watered down legends or missed out on dozens of mind-expanding tales as guides rushed through NOLA’s standard “greatest hits,” trying to please everyone. 

Years later, with sooooo many tour companies operational and more visitors to the city than ever before, we’ve grown for the better as an industry. We are now able to cater to the tastes of our diverse guests with specificity, and many guides are trained to be the narrative equivalent of master brewers. Lager, ale, stout, wine—whatever your “thing” is, there’s a master guide waiting to provide it. 

Rather than booking the 4-in-1, cafeteria-style tours from days gone by, ask yourself what kind of experience you’re personally looking for. Want to meet some gators? www.cajunprideswamptours.com/. Got an obsession with old-timey medicine and oddities? NOLA has that too: www.pharmacymuseum.org/. Looking to learn more about just how deadly and supernatural New Orleans is and has always been? We’ve got our own “Devil’s Empire” experience ready for you: www.hottesthell.com/the-tour.

Whatever you’re into, no matter how weird, we promise—NOLA has something specifically for you! Find your perfect fit, bypass the tours that try to please everyone and instead pick what will most please YOU. Gone are the days where you have to settle for two hours of bland, non-specific “culture” wrapped in Mardi Gras beads and Cajun spices.


 3. Beware Companies that Don’t Brag On Their Guides

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A tour is only ever as good as the guide who gives it. You’re trusting a guide with your time, money, and safety for an evening, so the qualifications and experience level of that person is a massive player in whether you have a blast or end up wanting a refund.  

Sadly, some tour companies don’t care much about quality, facts, user experience, or the happiness of their own guides—all they want is your money. And it shows. 

Because these operators disappoint both guests AND guides, their turnover rates for employees are very high. Great guides quit and open their own companies or partner with operators who support their education and growth as keepers of our city’s history. 

When a tour company doesn’t feature the names and bios of their guides on their web pages or social media, ask yourself, “why?” It’s like a concert promoter not sharing the names of the bands on a bill.  

The two biggest reasons why tour operators here do it?

  1. Excellent guides don’t stick around long enough for those companies to have the chance to brag on them

  2. The guides are under-qualified or under-experienced, and the bios reflect that, so they don’t publish them 

Stalk the web pages, Instagram, Facebook, and TripAdvisor review pages of tour companies which look appealing BEFORE YOU BOOK. Sometimes reviews can offer a glimpse of what you’ll see on your tour, making a booking with confidence easier. 

If they’re sharing photos of, customer review quotes about, and/or the faces and resumes of their guides, you can rest easy that’s a tour operator who cares about the happiness of its guests and employees equally. 

And as an added bonus, reviews and bios can help you find the tour, and narrator, of your dreams. Just keep a little list when doing vacation research. If you see a review that explains a guide was crazy passionate, totally hilarious, or went above and beyond to service their guests, write their name and the company they work for down. Then go check out their bios and look for common interests you share. That list will ultimately make purchasing your experience without buyer’s remorse much easier. 

Plus? Tour guides loooooove when you know a little about them or their background when you arrive. If you show up excited about taking THEIR tour, trust us on this one—they will give their ALL to provide you with the best experience they can. Service industry magic at its finest! 

By the way, have you met our guides yet? They’re pretty amazing: www.hottesthell.com/about-us


So that’s it. A few quick and easy ways to begin sorting through the hundreds of options NOLA has waiting for you. If you do decide that true crime tales with a touch of the paranormal are your favorite, we’re excited to serve you soon. If you end up with another company, we hope to pass your smiling face as we all walk these beautiful streets.

OPIUM and COCAINE AND LEECHES, OH MY: Haunting Medicine in Historic New Orleans


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Historically, North Americans have treated doctors, surgeons, and pharmacists like gods. This inclination is an odd, perhaps misguided choice, considering this country’s long tradition of poisoning or butchering patients in their hours of desperate need. Which may be why one of the most haunted buildings awaiting visitors of modern-day New Orleans is our Pharmacy Museum. Located in the French Quarter, the building was originally home to the very first regulated pharmacy in the country and run by Louis Joseph Dufilho, Jr., aka America’s O.G. licensed pharmacist. With a spacious street-level store, courtyard full of medicinal plants, and two stories of upstairs living quarters which eventually were turned in a medical ward for those dying of yellow fever, the building was an essential part of the life in the early French Quarter, patronized by some of the sickest people New Orleans could cough up. 

Dr. Joseph Dupas, who purchased the pharmacy building from Dufilho in 1855 for $18,000, was a purported mad doctor—his sinister experiments some of those eventual yellow fever patients were subjected to will be discussed in a follow-up post. But on an average day you’d easily come face to face with a variety of demented and questionable implementations. To name a few: leeches, opium, cocaine, alcohol, arsenic, and a lotta bootleg voodoo remedies being sold under code names to white patrons too embarrassed to support healers of color. 

You know, typical Walgreens stuff. 

The New Orleans Pharmacy Museum

The New Orleans Pharmacy Museum

AIN’T NO PARTY LIKE A PHARMACIST’S PARTY

Much of early “medicine,” no matter how dignified titles like “licensed pharmacist” make it sound, were just intoxicants, like pure grain alcohol, with a dash of something therapeutic thrown in because science y’all. Some medications were genuinely beneficial plant or chemical extracts, but as “modern medicine”—and the propaganda advertising it—rose, patrons affluent enough to invest at pharmacies began turning away from the natural remedies and get into “the hard stuff." Only poor people and people of color relied on dirty roots and witch’s brews, you see. Plus it was hard to argue drinking ginger tea felt better than smoking opium when New Orleanians were feeling funky. 

Here are a few of New Orleans’ favorite bad medicines, and their vile side effects, from days gone by:

Arsenic, Mercury, and Lead. 

  • “The only difference between poison and medicine is the dose,” the old adage says, and it’s mostly true. Nearly anything, from Vitamin A to baby aspirin, can be used as a therapy or a deadly agent depending on how much you’re shoveling into a human body. The trouble is that we didn’t fully understand until the last century how much damage even a pinch of poison could cause, especially in the case of heavy metals which accumulate in tissues for years before organs fail and cancers grow. One example is arsenic, a known carcinogen that New Orleanians used to treat sexually transmitted diseases. Nobel Prize winner Paul Ehrlich actually turned arsenic into Salvarsan, a famous syphilis treatment which was used with some efficacy for years until the discovery of penicillin. Mercury, the highly toxic heavy metal, was also used to heal the genitals of unfortunate NOLA denizens, usually in the form of ointment or pills for syphilis sores. It was also found in gum powders formulated to help teething babies—because what parent wouldn’t want to rub a neurotoxin into their child’s mouth? Another toxic heavy metal, lead, also made the cut. Lead oxide was the remedy of choice for boils and skin ulcers for centuries, while lead acetate was used to treat tuberculosis. Some pharmacists took the party to the next level and used a combination of lead acetate and opium as a solution for loose bowels...not exactly Imodium. Side Effects: Heavy metal poisoning causes abdominal cramping, vomiting, shortness of breath, tingling hands and feet, paralysis, dementia, infertility, anemia, seizures, coma, insanity, and death. 

A syphilitic man, wife, and mistress, being treated via mercury pills

A syphilitic man, wife, and mistress, being treated via mercury pills

LEECHES

  • When you live in a swamp one thing abundantly available is leeches. In pharmacies, they even got their own fancypants porcelain jar! Moreover, compared to some of the crazy shit early medical pros were using on people, those wriggling buggers were actually one of the most effective and least dangerous therapeutic interventions a patient could hope to receive. Because leeches secrete anticoagulants—blood thinners—via saliva into whomever they’re latched on to, they’ve used as a cheap and low-risk treatment for blood clots. In early New Orleans, they were also used to treat infections and neurological fits believed to be caused by “an excess of blood.” Some practitioners used them to bring down localized swelling in cases like tonsillitis and hemorrhoids...yes, leeches for hemorrhoids. Side Effects: Oozing and potentially deadly bacterial infections from tainted leeches; having a leech dangling from your swollen anus. 

Casual Leeches

Casual Leeches

Blood Letting

  • Speaking of “an excess of blood,” we used to blame a LOT of health problems on the theory a person could have too much blood in their body, or too much “bad blood.” Since the fifth century, people all over the world have tried to solve infections, fevers, and emotional issues like hysteria by opening veins and hoping the fever would run out of the body. Unfortunately, that’s not how blood or infections work, at all, and overzealous blood-letters could easily bleed an already ailing patient to death—like the time doctors pulled around 3.75 LITERS, more than half the blood in the entire human body, out of founding father George Washington as he lay struggling with an upper respiratory infection. (That intervention was...um...not effective, PS. Washington died.) Anyway, bloodletting didn’t happen in the pharmacy itself, but the shop was a place that could stock a variety of sharp, weird, Saw II looking devices used to puncture veins and control blood flow. Side Effects: Fainting, anemia, infection from rusted or unclean tools, bleeding to death even if you’re the President.  

Bloodletting

Bloodletting

Opium

  • One of the most potent pain killers eeeeeeever, it’s not been hard to understand why opium has had such staying power throughout medical history. A vital part of battlefield medicine during the Civil War—you really, REALLY didn’t want to have a limb amputated or take a bullet without it—the substance was a boon for healers and the recently mauled alike. Moreover, because of its constipating effects, opium was a reliable aid for common illnesses where explosive diarrhea could become deadly, including cholera and dysentery. Patients suffering from racking coughs or severe insomnia may have been prescribed remedies with small quantities of opium mixed in, and those with anxiety attacks or severe depression found getting wrecked on opium—the most potent narcotic on the market at that time—to be a pretty satisfactory alternative to talking about their feelings. Unfortunately, just like today, addiction was a serious problem. Physicians using opium to treat mood disorders often noted that some depressed patients became verbally abusive while on it, and withdrawals (chills, grey face, uncontrollable sweating, tremors, delirium, vomiting, searing nerve pain, etc.) could be worse than the illness it was initially prescribed to treat. It is estimated that around 200,000 opium addicts lived in the United States during the 19th century, a number that seems almost adorably tiny compared to the millions of opiate addicts modern medicine has managed to create in the last few decades. Side Effects: Nausea, vomiting, weight loss, agonizing constipation not received by enemas, sedation, impotence, inability to orgasm, heart attack, respiratory arrest, death. 

Opium and Cocaine

Opium and Cocaine

Cocaine

  • If there’s one “wonder drug” medical professionals loved the most, cocaine was it for a while...and not just because it made early settlers feels like Scarface. Cocaine was a highly effective analgesic (a numbing agent) and stimulant and made a variety of surgeries and medical procedures easier to execute AND survive. Just a few drops of cocaine solution could paralyze and numb an eyeball entirely, making ocular surgery pain free for the first time. Sinus surgery, removing adenoids or tonsils, and oral surgery all benefited greatly from the advent of cocaine, and patients loved not having their body cut into with scalpels while they could feel it. As of 1900, New Orleanians could walk into the pharmacy and grab a gram of pure cocaine for $0.25, using it to numb tooth pain, boost mood, or stay awake. Some parents used it to treat “shyness” in children. Medical professionals often likened it to coffee or tea and scoffed at its addictive risks. By the 20th century, cocaine was one of the Top 5 best selling pharmaceuticals in the nation, with coke-laced sodas, cigars, snuff powders, and injections readily available. Some heavy housewives and portly gentlemen even used it as an appetite suppressant, making cocaine one of our earliest “diet pills.” You know how this story ends, of course—addiction, tragedy, and eventual government regulation. Not surprisingly, a large number of our early coke addicts ended up being doctors and pharmacists, which may explain our long medical tradition of docs talking relentlessly and not being able to listen for more than 7 seconds without interrupting. Side Effects: Racing heartbeat, heart attack, clenched jaws, insomnia, mania, psychosis, renal disease, death, and writing 46-minute jazz songs with no melody.


Visitors with bent minds and an interest in medical macabre can get a glimpse of bottles, boxes, needles, implements, and all kinds of odd medical paraphernalia by visiting the Pharmacy Museum itself. To learn more about some of our city’s dark history of plagues, medical abuse, and turning poor patients into very bitter ghosts, book a tour with Hottest Hell, and subscribe to our newsletter for weekly blog updates.